The secret of drawing straight lines for beginners

I don't know if you have ever driven in a straight line in your life. In fact, driving in a straight line has many benefits. Just like when we were just learning to drive, there was an exam item called straight-line driving in the third subject test. That is, when driving, you must drive in a straight line. However, it is very difficult for beginners to drive in a straight line. They must hold the steering wheel tightly. So what are the secrets for novices to drive in a straight line?

Straight forward and reverse, referred to as "pull straight line"

Requirements: Move forward and backward slowly in the lane, keeping the car in the middle of the lane.

Key points:

(l) Be familiar with the function of the clutch pedal, master the "semi-clutch" driving method, and be able to control the car to move forward and backward at a very slow speed.

(2) Practice the interaction between the clutch and the brake.

(3) Be familiar with shifting gears and disengaging gears in first gear and reverse gear.

difficulty:

Cooperation and coordination between left and right feet

When getting in the car, the clutch is closed, the foot brake is released, the gear lever is in neutral, the handbrake is tight (in the pulled up position), and the engine is running.

After getting in the car, sit back with your back against the seat. Try to press the clutch and brake first. Try how much force you need to use to press the pedal and whether you can press it all the way to the bottom. See if the front and rear positions are suitable. If that doesn't work, adjust the seat. Everything is ready, fasten your seat belts as required. When you are ready to start, don’t forget to ask your master: Can I start? On the one hand, it is for politeness, but more importantly, it is for safety - it is your first time on the bus and you may encounter unexpected things.

Process and action breakdown:

Step 1: Push the clutch plate to the bottom, shift into first gear, and release the handbrake. (One, two, three, get on the bus)

When shifting gears, consciously force yourself not to look at the gear lever handle. It's nothing more than pushing the leftmost side forward or the rightmost side backward. There is no need to check the handbrake. The pole is so long that you can grab it. At the beginning, it’s definitely a bit uncomfortable and you have to force yourself. Look in front of the car, look in the three rearview mirrors, and observe the situation around the car.

Step 2: Press the base plate firmly with your left heel, lift the forefoot upwards, and gradually lift the clutch paddle. When the clutch is in the "semi-clutch" state, the vehicle starts slowly.

Now, lift the forefoot of your left foot and slowly lift the clutch pedal. When it reaches a certain point, the car will start moving. Press the left heel firmly on the baseboard to serve as a fulcrum. Control your force and do not release the clutch completely. If you feel the car is going too fast, press down a little with the forefoot. If you feel the car is going too slow, lift it up slightly. Maintaining this state keeps the driving speed slow and steady. If the whole process of practicing pole drilling is summarized in one sentence, it is "slow with your feet and fast with your hands." What I mean is. Control the clutch with your left foot and drive slowly. Control the steering wheel with both hands. The rotation speed should be fast. Of course, fast and slow are relative and need to be well coordinated with each other.

The pedal is lifted from the bottom position until the clutch friction plate is about to contact. This part of the travel is called the "effective travel" of the clutch pedal. From the beginning of the friction plate contact to the complete engagement, there is only about 1 cm (about the width of the little finger nail) of travel, which is called the "engagement stroke". After the friction plate is completely engaged, the pedal can be lifted for another distance, which is called the "free travel". (See Figure 19) We now want to keep the clutch in the initial stage of the engagement stroke, that is, the "semi-clutch" state when it first starts to engage. Each master has different habits and preferences, and the performance and condition of the car are different. The effective travel of the clutch of each car varies in length, so you need to experience it carefully. When you first start, lift the clutch slowly. After a period of time, try to achieve "fast-stop-slow", that is: when the pedal is in the effective stroke, release it a little faster, stop before entering the engagement stroke (about to engage), and then slowly lift it up to start entering the engagement stroke. Reach the "semi-linked" state. (See Figure 20) If you change the car to practice, there will be a process of getting familiar with it again. There was once a student who got used to a car with a relatively short clutch travel, so he could always move forward quickly. Once I changed a car and lifted it to the usual position, but it didn't move. I lifted it a little higher and it still didn't move. So I thought to myself: Why doesn't the clutch of this car work? As soon as I let go of my foot, the car jumped and stalled. On the contrary, if you are used to driving a car with a long effective stroke and then drive a car with a short effective stroke, you can imagine that it will be more likely to stall.

During the training stage, if you can control the clutch well, you may not need to brake for quite a long time. At this time, you can step your right foot back 4 feet and place it flat on the floor of the car. When you need to brake, remember to lift the front of your right foot in advance, move it forward, and let it hang over the brake pedal. It's okay to hit the pedal just don't push too hard.